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Painting Inside
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Painting your kitchen cabinets is a great alternative to purchasing new cabinets. Not only can you save a lot of money but if done correctly the results are fantastic.
The most simple way to complete this project is leave the inside of the cabinets unpainted . The inside is only seen when the cabinet is open so I would suggest that you not paint the inside. Plus if you don't paint the inside you don't have to remove everything from inside the cabinets.
Be sure the room is well ventilated because the primer and paint have a strong odor. You may need to use a fan placed close to a door or window in order to pull some of the fumes out of the house.
Step 1. Take off all of the cabinet hardware including all knobs, handles and pulls. Cover all counter tops and flooring using drop cloths or tarps. Leave the doors attached. Using painters tape, tape all the hinges on the doors.
Step 2. You will need to clean the cabinets using a cleaning solution such as TSP. This is a cleaning agent which is readily available at most hardware stores. Wash the exterior of all the cabinets that are to be painted using your cleaning solution. Allow the cabinets to fully dry and then sand them to a dull finish using a fine grit sandpaper.
Step 3. Prime cabinets using a good oil based primer such as BIN or Zinsser primer which you can also purchase at most hardware or paint stores. Apply a thin coat of primer using a short nap roller and a brush. Prime the front of the doors first then open and prime the backs of the doors. After priming the doors, prime the remainder of the exposed cabinets. After the primer is completely dry, take your fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand the cabinets.
Step 4. Paint the cabinets using a brush and short nap roller the same way you applied the primer. You can use either oil or latex (water based) paint. The oil is going to be more difficult to apply but will be more durable than the latex. If you do use oil paint, you may need to thin the paint using paint thinner so that you can achieve a smooth finish. Be careful and do not thin the paint too much. Start out by thinning the paint a very small amount and thin more if necessary. You will also need paint thinner for cleaning up the paint and primer.
Step 5. Once the cabinets are completely dry, lightly sand any bubbles that formed in the first coat of paint using fine grit sandpaper. Do not sand so hard that you remove the paint you just put on. Paint the final coat using the same method as before. Allow the cabinets to dry at least 24 hours before reattaching the knobs and pulls.
Step 6. If you used an oil paint, clean the brush and roller sleeve using paint thinner. If you used latex paint you can use regular tap water to clean your brush and roller sleeve. If you used an inexpensive brush and roller sleeve you may want to discard them instead of trying to clean them.
Painting cabinetry can be a tedious task so just take your time and follow the steps in this article. Following these guidelines I believe you will be pleased with the outcome.
Copyright (c) 2008 Smoky Mountain Painting
The author is the owner of Smoky Mountain Painting and has over thirty years experience in the home improvement industry. For more information visit http://www.smokymountainpainting.com
Five Most Common Paint Problems
There are a number of pitfalls to watch out for when you paint.
Bleeding.
Bleeding usually occurs on exterior surfaces when a stain already on the surface bleeds through the new paint. Inside, too, problems can arise, as when children use crayons or permanent ink on walls. You may paint the area a dozen times, but the marks always bleed through. (Try spraying them with shellac first.)
Blistering.
Blistering occurs when you paint over a surface that is wet. For example, when you are painting outdoors over rotted wood or on a misty day, the moisture gets underneath the surface of the paint and lifts it up. Blistering usually occurs soon after painting. Be sure the surface is dry before you paint.
Chalking and Fading.
Chalking and fading may simply be the result of the aging process of the paint. If it's excessive, however, it could indicate an underlying water problem. The subsurface could be wet. You will need to dig down into the subsurface to determine where the moisture is coming from and then put up a barrier.
Nail Popping.
This occurs most often on sheet rock where the nail pops up, causing a protrusion in the paint, although it can occur on any surface. It might simply be that the nail was never properly ham¬mered down. However, if rust marks show through, there is moisture in the wood from which the nail protrudes. You will probably have to get into the wall to determine where the moisture is coming from and then resolve the problem.
Wrinkling.
Wrinkling is usually an outdoor problem caused by putting on too much paint or painting on a hot day. Wrinkling can also occur if the previous coat (or primer) was not completely dry. Whatever the cause, you will need to strip the paint off and start over—a good reason to be extra careful!
Paint will get on you no matter how careful you try to be. Rub on a lotion or petroleum jelly before you start. It will help keep the paint from sticking and make cleanup easier.
About the Author
You might also want to know how to repair stairs and how to repair a dryer
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painting inside of the church seats are blue carp is blue windows trim natual wd what color should use?
We have light blue and yellowstain glass windows with natural wood trim seat and carpet is a dark aqua blue with little specks of black what /wall color now is off white what color should we try
Here's a color scheme I found, it includes a dark yellow (figured this was closest to natural wood color), yellow, light blue, and dark aqua blue, and the middle color is a medium to deep teal, I would go with the teal for the seats.
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