Inside Painted

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Inside Painted
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Some people call them faux fireplaces or decorative fireplaces or just plain or fake fireplaces, but no matter the name, the idea remains the same. Fake fireplaces bring all the charm and beauty of a traditional wood burning fireplace without all the smoke, soot and mess ashes.

Not to mention that a fake fireplace can go in just about any type of house, apartment or condominium with major structural remodeling and construction hassles. If you have ever wanted to experience the style and appeal of a fireplace without all the mess, then you should read this article on a fake fireplace.

What Are inside fireplaces Exactly?

Inside fake fireplaces are any kind of burner device that simulates the appearance a traditional wood fireplace, especially the flames and heat. While gas fireplaces are sometimes considered "fake" fireplaces since they don't burn wood, they do require that you install either propane or piped gas lines.

They also need an imitation "log" set with gas jets and must have a fire proof box to set in and a venting system just like you have for a regular wood fire.

Sometimes the only way to get the look of a fireplace without the problems of installing anything is to buy a faux fireplace that either burns gel or uses electrical power. The most common fake fireplace you will find inside many homes is the electric.

Electric Fireplaces

These units are simply electrical heaters that use blowers to gently move shaped fabric "flames" set inside a shell of colored lights and replica "glowing" embers". These fake fireplaces that are enclosed in painted or wooden style cases and are relatively cheap to operate when compared to some other types of room heaters.

The advantages of a fake fireplace are that there are no flues, chimneys or vents required. Nothing to be installed or remodeled, just roll one of these units into your house or apartment and plug it in. You can either use it as a supplemental heater, or turn off the heat to just enjoy the visual comfort of the flames. They also use thermostats and remotes to control their settings. The disadvantage is just like any other electrical device, sooner or later it will wear out and you will have to replace it but most of these units are designed to last for many years with very little maintenance.

Gel Fireplaces

Another type of inside fake fireplaces is the ones that burn gel. Basically gel burners use a fuel very similar to Sterno(TM). This specially formulated gel is marketed under different brand names, but the basic concept is simple. A series of canisters containing gelled isopropyl alcohol or ethanol are placed inside the shell of a ceramic log set enclosed in a painted enamel metallic or wooden case. The canisters when lit last several hours and give the illusion of a traditional wood flame without the danger of burning embers, popping logs or sparks.

The advantage of these fireplaces is that they can be placed in any room and don't require any hook ups or electrical power. The gel burns cleaning releasing only a small amount of carbon dioxide (the same gas we exhale). Since the gel doesn't require an electrical source to run, many people who live in areas that are prone to cold weather power outages find fake gel fireplaces, a nice alternative to other short-term emergency heating sources.

Now that you know more about fake fireplaces, you can decide on which kind is best for you and your family.

My dad was a shipping magnet and because of that, me and my family had to travel with him constantly. I gained a lot of knowledge through that. With my dad's influence I went into importing and exporting and this kept me on the road. I am settled now in one place and find it most fulfilling in writing articles. View some more articles by Marc Willis at http://www.fireplaceguide.net.

The Insides of Wallpaper Removal

The Insides of Wallpaper Removal

By Mark Chambers

   You’ve been looking at the same four walls for months or maybe even years with the same thought, “I wish I could change that awful wallpaper!” but never thought you had the skills or money to get it done. Well, you may not have the money, but if you have the patience, you can change that old look.

Lurking Problems

   Wallpaper removal can be tricky; here are some of the hidden pitfalls.

• The undercoating-If the drywall has been painted prior to the wallpaper being applied then the job will be quicker. However, if the drywall has not been prepped then the job just got worse. The removal process can damage the drywall paper under the wallpaper. It is very sensitive and can absorb the water and chemicals used to strip the wallpaper. This can cause you to gouge the paper and create timelier repair issues later.
• Painted over wallpaper- If the wallpaper has been painted over then the job gets a bit tougher. Wallpaper is thin enough to score using a scoring tool designed to cause minimal damage to the drywall paper underneath, but may not be deep enough to score through the paint and wallpaper, especially if there is more than one coat of paint over the paper.

Getting Started

   Before you get started it is necessary to take an inventory of all the items that you may need.

• Wallpaper scoring tool: Paper Tiger (generally found at any hardware or painting store) or a razor blade
• Wallpaper removal chemical: DIF or for starch based adhesive water and vinegar. You may also use a rented or store bought steamer for this process, while the rented steamers are usually better, the latter is generally a good investment if you have a large job that requires more time
• Plastic putty knife-It is advisable to obtain a 2” to 2 ½” putty knife as they are easier to handle, but it is based on your comfort.
• Clean up- Large bucket, sponge, terry towel and cleaning solution. The cleaning solution should be mild. It will be used to remove any old adhesive left on the drywall. Use either fabric softener (diluted) or a TSP solution.
• Drywall Spackling- Choose lightweight spackling for small imperfections or choose joint compound for larger areas.
• Drywall sandpaper and sanding block-used to smooth out spackling or joint compound. Choose either a handheld sanding block or one that can be attached to a pole for higher, harder to reach areas.
• Tack cloth-Used to remove drywall dust before painting

Score the Paper

   Using the wallpaper scoring tool that you chose earlier, score the wallpaper. This step is time consuming given the area to be treated, but necessary. Take the time if using a paper tiger to score all areas well. It is especially necessary if the wallpaper is vinyl. Vinyl wallpaper is designed to repel water and be water washable, so it is resistant to the chemicals you will be using to release the adhesive.

   If you are in the position of having to remove painted over wallpaper, then a razor blade will be your desired tool. Using the razor blade, cut multiple X patterns in the wallpaper. Be careful not to cut too deep.

Apply the Adhesive Remover

Store bought adhesive removers generally use an enzyme to quickly breakdown the adhesive. If used properly the wallpaper should come off in sheets after being treated for about thirty minutes. Follow the instructions located on the bottle of the remover. Test an area of the wall to check the undercoating and the remover’s effectiveness on it. This will show you if the remover is working on the adhesive and if there is a painted surface under the paper, (the best outcome). If you notice the paper is not coming off as a solid piece, then you may have to score the area more, apply more remover or allow more time for the remover to work.

Only begin using a water/vinegar solution if you are certain that it is a starch based adhesive. These adhesives were used quite some time ago are replaced by newer, stronger adhesives. If you have a newer home, than you more than likely have a stronger adhesive to remove and should start with a store bought remover.

Clean Up

After the paper is removed, now comes the time to clean up. Using either fabric softener, (2 tablespoons of liquid fabric softener to one gallon of water) or TSP (Follow directions on packaging), begin to wash the walls. You can use either a wall sponge or a terry towel for this process. You will be able to feel any left over adhesive on the wall. After washing the walls it is recommended that you rinse them to remove any left over soap solution. Allow the area to dry overnight.

Prepping for Paint

You are now in the home stretch. It has required a lot of patience to get to this point, but a little more is required. If, through the course of your stripping, you created any defects in the drywall paper, you must correct these before applying paint or primer. Fill any nail holes or razor marks with a lightweight spackling compound. There are some on the market that can be primed over within an hour and some require more drying time, be sure to read all indications on the label. For larger damages, use a joint compound. These areas will require that you let them dry overnight to properly cure before sanding and painting. Apply the spackling in an area approximately three inches larger than the damaged area to allow you to feather the area further masking the repair. After allowing the appropriate amount of time for drying, sand the area smooth and use the tack cloth to remove any dust left on the wall.

Finishing the Job

   You now have a smooth wall that is ready for whatever you want to throw at it. Before choosing your finish, speak to your retailer on the different priming options available then choose the one best for your final finish. Happy Painting!

About the Author

Mark Chambers has been in the home improvement industry for 14 years and has written numerous articles on home improvent.

How to remove odorless oily seepage from the painted walls inside the house?

The house we recently moved into has this problem in one of the rooms. It seems to get worse when it is hot inside the room. Walls in this room previously had wallpaper, but it looks like it was removed prior to painting. I am not sure what kind of paint was used, but it is not a glossy type. We have not noticed any problems in any other rooms painted with the same paint (and likely had the same type of wallpaper in the past). What is causing this seepage, and how can we get rid of it once and for all? Thanks.

Your answer is coming to you from richardlibertpainting.com. Apparently the seepage is due to the glue from the wallpaper not being washed properly. When the room is hot with condensation this glue seeps through the topcoat. To repair this problem, reduce condensation by using A/C unit or fans. Once dry apply one coat of B-I-N primer alcohol base and four hours later you can topcoat with any 100% acrylic coating. If this job becomes too much call the pros at 813-770-1673.

CLIFTON RABBLE-ROUSER TAKES IT INSIDE
Mary Sadrakula, who helped lead a successful campaign to defeat a proposal to build a school at Clifton's Latteri Park, is proving to be an assertive and active new elected member to the City Council. Her first order of business: a proposal to end health benefits for council members. The idea was shot down by some of her new colleagues.

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