Thanks for visiting our site!
Fine Boxwood
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
 |
US $6.50
| Powered by phpBay Pro |
Here are some more information for Fine Boxwood:
Bulbs to be planted now (March) in the South include the Summer and fall lilies. Use the fine old crinums and the milk-and-wine lily, with strong, upright stems. These have such a strong and heavy head of buds that they must be staked to hold them upright, but the lovely flowers will bloom all summer long. Planted on the edge of a flower border with petunias or verbenas set in front of them, they will make a fine showing for many months.
The butterfly or ginger lily (hedychium) is a fall-blooming lily of the same type as the crinums. Both are very fine and easily grown. Members of the amaryllis family, they do not require deep planting, grow best in half-shade in, a good loamy soil. After about five years the bulbs may be lifted and separated and new plantings made.
Hemerocallis add color to many gardens. There are many lovely new hybrids each year. Especially desirable are the yellow Annis Victoria Russell and Queen of Gonzales. both of which are evergreen. The pinks are superb and. there are soft rose and salmon tones. Pink Tiara and Wax Soldier are evergreen; Fairyland, Another Song and Love Call are dormant. Deep rich reds ate found in Black Prince, Nokomis, Tejas and Painted Lady, all of which are "musts" for every fine collection. Hemerocallis bloom in my garden from early spring to late fall, and each one is a daily joy indoors or out.
Boxwoods now need attention. With pruning shears, clip out dead twigs and cut off those that are growing too tall. Then plant each twig you cut, after first dipping them in rooting powder. Soon your line of boxwood will extend itself on and on. If you give them shade and water them freely, every slip should grow.
Nasturium seed sown now will bloom freely in a few months. Do not give nasturtiums too much fertilizer; they seem to like poor soil. Gerheras and pinks sown in flats will be ready to move to the borders in about six weeks. You can also buy plants of these as well as of verbenas and petunias.
Spring comes in at long last with a burst of color in the flowering plums and crabapples. Low borders are covered with annuals among which bloom early daffodils and tulips. Florentine iris in white and purple shades contrast with climbing and tree wistarias. Yellow jasmine and forsythia add their golden treasure, while pear and apricot blossums make white clouds above the lower blooms.
In case you are unaware there is lots more on other topics like landscaping bridges happens to be just one of them. Drop by today at plant-care.com.
Techniques for Growing Plants in the Autumn
As a home gardener, fall should be a very special time for you. Fall is the best season of the year for plant propagation, especially for home gardeners who do not have the luxury of intermittent mist. The technique that I am going to describe here can be equally effective for evergreens as well as many deciduous plants.
The old rule of thumb was to start doing hardwood cuttings of evergreens after you have experienced at least two hard freezes. After two hard freezes the plants are completely dormant.
However, based on my experience it is beneficial to start doing your evergreen cuttings earlier than that. So instead of doing "by the book" hardwood cuttings you're actually working with semi-hardwood cuttings. The down side to starting your cuttings early is that they will have to be watered daily unless you experience rain showers. The up side is that they will start rooting sooner, and therefore are better rooted when you pull them out to transplant them.
To prepare an area in which to root cuttings you must first select a site. An area that is about 50% shaded will work great. Full sun will work, it just requires that you tend to the cuttings more often. Clear all grass or other vegetation from the area that you have selected. The size of the area is up to you. Realistically, you can fit about one cutting per square inch of bed area. You might need a little more area per cutting, it depends on how close you stick the cuttings in the sand.
Once you have an area cleared off all you have to do is build a wooden frame and lay it on the ground in the area that you cleared. Your frame is a simple as four 2 by 4's or four 2 by 6's nailed together at each corner. It will be open on the top and open on the bottom. Just lay it on the ground in the cleared area, and fill it with a coarse grade of sand.
This sand should be clean (no mud or weed seed), and much coarser than the sand used in a play box. Visit your local builders supply center and view each sand pile they have. They should have different grades varying from very fine to very coarse. You don't want either. You want something a little more coarse than their medium grade. But then again it's not rocket science, so don't get all worked up trying to find just the right grade. Actually, bagged swimming pool filter sand also works and should be available at discount home centers.
Once your wooden frame is on the ground and filled with sand, you're ready to start sticking cuttings. Wet the sand the day before you start, that will make it possible for you to make a slit in the sand that won't fill right in. In this propagation box you can do all kinds of cuttings, but I would start with the evergreens first. Taxus, Junipers, and Arborvitae.
Make the cuttings about 4" long and remove the needles from the bottom two thirds of the cuttings. Dip them in a rooting compound and stick them in the sand about an inch or so. Most garden centers sell rooting compounds. Just tell them that you are rooting hardwood cuttings of evergreens.
When you make the Arborvitae cuttings you can actually remove large branches from an Arborvitae and just tear them apart and get hundreds of cuttings from one branch. When you tear them apart that leaves a small heel on the bottom of the cutting. Leave this heel on. It represents a wounded area, and the cutting will produce more roots because of this wound.
Once the weather gets colder and you have experienced at least one good hard freeze, the deciduous plants should be dormant and will have dropped their leaves, and you can now propagate them. Just make cuttings about 4" long, dip them in a rooting compound and stick them in the bed of sand. Not everything will root this way, but a lot of things will, and it takes little effort to find out what will work and what won't.
This is a short list of just some of the things that root fine this way. Taxus, Juniper, Arborvitae, Japanese Holly, Blue Boy/Girl Holly, Boxwood, Cypress, Forsythia, Rose of Sharon, Sandcherry, Weigela, Red Twig Dogwood, Variegated Euonymus, Cotoneaster, Privet, and Viburnum.
Immediately after sticking the cuttings thoroughly soak the sand to make sure there are no air pockets around the cuttings. Keep the cuttings watered once or twice daily as long as the weather is warm. Once winter sets it you can stop watering, but if you get a warm dry spell, water during that time.
Start watering again in the spring and throughout out the summer. The cuttings should be rooted by late spring and you can cut back on the water, but don't let them dry out to the point that they burn up.
By fall you can transplant them to a bed and grow them on for a year or two, or you can plant them in their permanent location. This technique takes 12 months, but it is simple and easy.
About the Author
For tips on acacia seyal and false acacia, visit the Acacia Plant website.
help me! my juniper bonsai is really dry!?
Help! i got this cute little bonsai for christmas this year, and it was doing fine until i fell behind in caring for it. i only fell behind a little and i noticed it was really dry and brittle. there are some spots that aren't brittle, but are still dry. i have been doing my chores for it as i was told to, but it isn't responding. it is green, and it looks fine, but it put a perfect spin on the phrase looks can be deceiving. it is brittle, as i said, and small parts of the tips are now gone, but i have been misting it. i'm a plant lover so i know plants usually respond within a day or two. and this little bonsai is not. can anyone help me? i don't want this to end the same way for my boxwood. (it died of box blight) please help! thanks you in advance.
Your Juniper bonsai 'needs' to be kept outdoors (it should never be kept inside the home). They love the outdoors. Your bonsai needs more sun and outdoor air. Place your potted Juniper in an area that will get about 4 hours of sunlight (preferrable morning to noon sunlight). Give the Juniper water when the soil feels dry to about an inch into the soil (use your finger and push into the soil to feel how dry it is). Make sure there are at least one or two holes on the bottom of the pot that the Juniper is planted in. When winter comes around, the potted Juniper should be brought into an 'enclosed porch (when the temperatures go below 34 degrees), that has closed windows 'not' open screens, so that the wind and the freezing cold temps can not get into the porch. Or it could be put into an enlosed garage or shed (one preferrably with a 'closed' window, to allow some light in) . If the garage has a closed window, set it near the window in the garage to protect the Junipers roots from getting frozen during the winter. Mix some Miracle Grow with water (a 'weak' solution) and pour a little bit of that onto the soil either in spring or in the summer months, about every 2 months. Does'nt need plant food during the cold winter months. When you first put your tree outside, it will need to adjust to the new lighting outdoors, so it may be about 4 weeks before it starts to look greener and healthier outside. ---- Hope this helps.
Landscaping that can survive drought
Xeriscaping means landscaping that doesn't need much water to look nice. For people who live out west, it's a way of life.
Thanks for visiting!
